Here's the last of the great Nebraska landmarks along the Oregon Trail: Scotts Bluff. This is at milepost 596, so when the emigrants saw it, they knew they were a little less than a third of the way along. (And just so you know, the nearby town of Scottsbluff is spelled out as one complete word).

It truly is the "Nebraska Gibraltar," as some overlanders referred to it. Rising from the North Platte River valley like a huge fortress, the Plains Indians called it Me-a-pa-te, "hill that it is hard to go around." Later travelers might have felt that way too, but eventually the Mitchell Pass running through here became the preferred route, especially after the dramatic traffic increase caused by the Gold Rush of 1849.

Even before the Great Migration, various fur traders and mountain men became aware of Scotts Bluff. Employees of tycoon John Jacob Astor passed by here Christmas Day, 1812, on their way homeward. These may have been the first white men ever to have seen the landmark. But in slightly more than a dozen years, Scotts Bluff became well known to the traders passing back and forth from the rendezvous out west.

How It Got Its Name

The bluff got its name about this time, when one Hiram Scott (a clerk with a fur trading company) died nearby. There are quite a few legends surrounding this incident, so it's hard to know the exact truth of the circumstances. One tale has it that an ailing Scott was abandoned by his colleagues some sixty miles away. The following year his bones were found near Scotts Bluff, evidence that he had crawled the entire distance before eventually succumbing.

The National Monument Today

Today, about 3000 acres of this marvelous landscape have been preserved as Scotts Bluff National Monument. It's located just minutes away from the towns of Scottsbluff and Gering in the panhandle of Nebraska. Actually, there are several bluffs/cliffs that make up the Monument, including Sentinel, Crown, Dome and Eagle Rocks. And, of course, there's Mitchell Pass itself which meanders among these. The neat thing is, you can walk part of the actual trail yourself here. And don't forget the camera — this is photogenic Nebraska at its best!

You'll find a superior visitor center, museum and art gallery at Scotts Bluff National Monument. There are artifacts on display chronicling the Oregon and Pony Express Trails, both of which passed through here. And the art gallery is stupendous. It features an extensive display of water colors and sketches by William H. Jackson, one of the most important of the Oregon Trail artists. This is perhaps your best chance to see what life on the trail was really like.

And what about the outdoor fun here? Well, the CCC blew a couple tunnels through Scotts Bluff and built a winding road up to the summit back in the 1930's. When weather conditions permit, you can drive this all the way to the top for a dizzying view of the area.

But for the best experience, hike the Saddle Rock Trail up and back. This is about one-and-half miles long (one-way), leading from the visitor center, through a bit of prairie and then up some gorgeous hills and cliffs, eventually ending at the summit. Take along a sack lunch, like we did, and enjoy a refreshing meal at the top. Since most Americans lead sedentary lifestyles and choose to drive, you're more apt to meet foreign visitors (if anyone) on the trail.

On the Saddle Rock Trail

We had all sorts of great experiences while hiking the Saddle Rock Trail. Here are just a few of them from our expedition there in June of 1999:

Learning About Scotts Bluff

I should probably mention that there is a wealth of great booklets and brochures about Scotts Bluff; let me describe some of them. First of all, the Official Map and Guide that you get free of charge when you enter the Monument is a great start. Most of the gorgeous illustrations in it are by William H. Jackson, to whom I referred above. Then there is the National Park Service Historical Handbook #28, written by the estimable Merrill J. Mattes. Published by the U.S. Government Printing Office you can purchase it right at the Monument, or mail order it directly from the U.S. Government Online Bookstore; see the links to these agencies below. Finally, the visitor center at Scotts Bluff National Monument has a whole range of educational leaflets available either for free or at a nominal cost (25 cents each, last time I was there). Here are some of the titles I picked up:

• Black Billed Magpie
• Coyote
• Deer on the Prairie
• Great Horned Owl
• Landmark Along the North Platte
• Plains Pocket Gopher
• Porcupines
• Rabbits of the Prairie
• The Rebecca Winters Story
• The Rocks of Scotts Bluff
• Snakes of the Prairie
• The Trees of Scotts Bluff National Monument

• Federal
  • Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC)
  • National Park Service
  • U.S. Government Online Bookstore
  • U.S. Government Printing Office
  
  
• Municipal
  • City of Gering
  • City of Scottsbluff
  
  
• Other Interesting Sites
  • William H. Jackson on the Internet