If you've been using the big blue arrows to navigate this far, then you will have just come here from the Hollenberg Station. In fact, that's the very same physical route we took back in the year 2000 as we followed a bit of the Pony Express Trail. Rock Creek Station is in Nebraska (barely across the border from Kansas), not far from the Little Blue River. This is the same path emigrants on the Oregon Trail would have taken, following the Little Blue up to near Hastings, then making a short leap over to the Platte River at Fort Kearny.

Rock Creek Station today is a State Historic Park and a member of the Nebraska State Park system. You'll find it about five miles east of the town of Fairbury.

The Wild West Begins Here

This rugged outpost from pioneer days has had quite a history. Originally built in 1857, the spread consisted of little more than a cabin, a barn and a make-shift store. Its purpose, of course, was to take in money by selling goods to emigrants along the Oregon Trail. This early construction comprises what is known as the West Ranch, that is, the part that was built on the land west of Rock Creek. By the way, if you're into numbers and such, you might like to know that we're 201 miles along the Oregon Trail now.

A couple years later, in 1859, the entire affair was sold to a disheartened prospective gold-seeker by the name of Dave McCanles. McCanles kept the store running and further added to his income by building a toll bridge across the creek. Pioneers working their way west could save a little time and toil negotiating the stream by forking out fifty cents or so, and crossing in style.

That same year, McCanles built a cabin and dug a well on the east side of Rock Creek. In a couple more years, this became a Pony Express relay station, hence the name of the historic site. The company originally leased the premises, but then later "purchased" the property from McCanles — at least making a downpayment.

Unfortunately, they were a little sluggish in coming up with further installments, and this is supposedly what led to the trouble which was to make fame (or infamy) for a certain person working here (which in turn was the source of an incredible number of bad movies and television shows in the 1950s!)

Rock Creek Station was to be a relay or swing station on the Pony Express Trail, a place where riders could rapidly exchange horses and continue onward. Russell, Majors and Waddel, the owners of the company, had brought in a station keeper and a stock manager from the outside. Also hired was a young man to act as stable hand; his name was James Butler Hickok.

There's a fair amount of mystery concerning what happened next. But most accounts suggest that the Pony Express company was delinquent in making payments to McCanles and that the latter became impatient. So, on July 12, 1861, McCanles, his young son and a couple of hired hands came a-knocking on the door, inquiring about the cash that was overdue. With very little provocation apparently, Hickok cut loose with some gunplay, and others joined in the fracas swinging hoes and assorted blunt instruments. When it was all over, three men lay dead, with only the youngster escaping.

And this was the start of the gunslinging career of one "Wild Bill" Hickok. Incidentally, Hickok and the other Pony Express employees were tried for murder in nearby Beatrice. Amazingly, they were found not guilty, claiming they acted in self-defense. As I understand it, though, Hickok ambushed McCanles from behind a bush, shooting him unannounced. This hardly seems sporting, and not part of the "Code of the West." On the other hand, some writers have suggested that McCanles was a bit of a bully and had previously derided Hickok's physical appearance (nicknaming him "Duck Bill," a reference to his long nose and protruding lips).

A Notable Descendent

Here's a bit of trivia: McCanles' great-great-grandson is a NASA space shuttle astronaut. His name is Bruce McCandles, Jr. (the spelling of the family name was apparently altered slightly).

Anyway, Hickok got his start here, and eventually became a bit of a legend, thanks especially to lurid accounts which appeared in periodicals back east. As you probably know, he came to his end in Deadwood, South Dakota, at the age of 39. He was shot while playing poker at the Number 10 Saloon...but that's another story. (We visited there back in 1997).

Our Journey to Rock Creek Station

We rolled in here on June 8, 2000, a very hot and dusty day. The sun was beating down unabatedly and the dry air carried particles everywhere, getting in our eyes, our hair and our clothes. In short, this was probably very much like the conditions emigrants would have encountered while crossing the Great American Desert. Somehow it all seemed fitting.

But unlike those hardy pioneers, we had the luxury of popping into the air-conditioned and newish Interpretive Center. This was a lovely and nicely landscaped brick building, hosted by the Nebraska State Park system. Within it was an absolutely magnificent museum, featuring wonderful artifacts from the trail days and other displays. Very nice!

Outside my attention was caught by the path leading down to the West Ranch. Bordering it on both sides was an excellent prairie patch. As the photo to the left shows, the blanket flowers (Gaillardia aristata) were now in full bloom — one of my favorite plants. This was an exceedingly beautiful patch, bursting with many different types of native grasses and wildflowers.

As a neat educational touch, the State of Nebraska had plopped in little placards identifying the various species. I really appreciated this, for it gave me a chance to bone up on my wildflower and grass skills. I could have spent all day here conferring with the numerous field guides I've accumulated over the years.

There was no one else on the path, and I had the West Ranch all to myself. I poked around, looking into the several buildings comprising it and tried to imagine what living here would have been like. All in all, this was a very nice "western" experience and a relaxing way to spend a much needed vacation. If you enjoy the romance of the Pony Express, gunslingers and pioneer life, I'd like to suggest you check into Rock Creek Station State Historical Park.

Incidentally, adjoining the property is the similarly named Rock Creek Station State Recreation Area (also part of the State Park system) which has picnicking and camping facilities. We ran out of time on this trip and weren't able to see it, but will probably return on another occasion for a bit of a bivouac. There's a link to it below in case you'd like to learn more about the Recreation Area. As for this trip, it was on to Beatrice and the wonderful Homestead National Monument of America.

• Federal
  • Homestead National Monument of America
  
  
• State
  • Rock Creek Station State Recreation Area
  • Nebraska State Parks
  • State of Nebraska Travel and Tourism
  
  
• Municipal
  • City of Beatrice
  • Town of Fairbury
  • City of Hastings
  • City of Deadwood, South Dakota
  
  
• Other Interesting Sites
  • Wild Bill Hickok
  • Wild Bill's Demise at the Number 10
  • Blanket Flower: Gaillardia aristata