Continuing westward from Fort Laramie another eight miles will take you to Register Cliff. An overlander coming across this notable landmark would be about 658 miles along the way.

A Two-in-One Day Trip

Close by are the famous Oregon Trail Ruts of Guernsey, Wyoming. Since these two historic sites are only several miles from each other and can be combined into an excellent day trip, I'll lump them together here. And keep in mind that you're close to the delightful Guernsey State Park, should you be needing accommodations for the night.

Register Cliff State Historic Site is owned and maintained by the Wyoming State Historical Society. Beginning your visit at the town of Guernsey, it's located on S. Wyoming Avenue, 3 miles south of junction US 26. You'll find an interpretive sign and a walkway leading around the 100 foot cliff. Also near the parking lot are some kybos. Click the thumbnail at the right to get a feel for the layout.

A Signature in Stone

As the overlanders crossed the continent, they often carved their names in rocks along the way. I suppose this might be viewed as a form of bragging, proving to others that they've made it this far. (It was not all that uncommon for parties to "see the elephant," giving up and turning back). Like the rocks at Alcove Spring which also sport graffiti, the ones here at Register Cliff are hard enough that the engravings persist even to this day.

Perhaps one of the sadder stories is that of Alva H. Unthank, a boy of 19 who passed by here in 1850. You'll note the date, just one year after the '49-ers had created a sensation. Alva intended to make his fortune in the gold fields of California. When passing Register Cliff, he dutifully carved his name, as did so many others.

Several days later he felt a little queasy in the morning, somewhat ill by afternoon and was being buried the following day. For Alva had fallen prey to cholera, a fairly common happenstance on the Oregon and California Trails. He made it as far as Casper before succumbing to the virulent disease, and his grave site can supposedly still be found there.

By the way, back when I was a professor, I had my college algebra classes study exponential growth, The students would work a problem showing how a single cholera germ reproduces to become over 16 million strong in just twelve hours. This helps explain how the ailment could overtake an emigrant in such a short period of time. When visiting here, look for Alva's engraving (see the picture above). It's hard not to feel sad when pondering how the optimism of youth was squelched in such rapid fashion.

If you're ready to move on, drive back toward Guernsey two miles or so (just look for the signs) until you come to the Oregon Trail Ruts State Historic Site. Here you will find what are possibly the best preserved examples anywhere. The overlanders had to cross some fairly tough limestone, and so the wagon wheels carved out ever deeper and deeper gouges. In places, the ruts dip down over five feet, so you won't miss them! There's a self-guiding trail here to interpret the site, but no other facilities.

Incidentally, the Guernsey Ruts are so deep and so well preserved, that you'll see pictures of them on everything, from book covers to television shows about the Oregon Trail. They're truly a sight to behold. To whet your appetite, check out the fun photographs of the Wyoming State Historical Society's 2001 Trek to the ruts. (See the links below)

• State
  • Guernsey State Park
  • Wyoming State Parks & Historic Sites
  
  
• Other Interesting Sites
  • 2001 Trek to the Oregon Trail Ruts
  • WyoNeb Write-up on the Oregon Trail Ruts
  • WyoNeb Write-up on Register Cliff