Okay! We're in Wyoming now, one of my favorite states. Among its many other advantages, Wyoming has two in particular that appeal to me: (a) a very large and attractive land mass, and (b) an extremely low human population. Can you believe this is the ninth largest state, but with a population of only 476,000? Hell, the state capital of Cheyenne weighs in at a mere 50,000!

An Historic Wyoming Fort

Anyway, as you follow the Oregon Trail out of Nebraska, a short hop of thirty miles lands you at Fort Laramie National Historic Site. Located near the confluence of the North Platte and Laramie Rivers, you'll find it 3 miles southwest of the town of Fort Laramie, off of US 26. If you're keeping track, this is at milepost 650 along the trails.

Fort Laramie has had a long and interesting history, and many famous and important people have passed through its entrance. The original establishment was built by noted fur trader William Sublette in 1834. You'll encounter his name in several places out west (towns, trail cutoffs, etc.) and in fact the original fort here was named William in his honor.

The first trading post was constructed of cottonwood logs, guaranteed not to last very long. So a little later, in 1841, a newer version of the fort was built, this time in whitewashed adobe. Note that the location was moved a trifle down river. The name changed, also, to Fort John (after one of the share holders in the fur trading company which now owned it). Despite these "official" name changes, most people always referred to it as Fort Laramie. Whatever the moniker, the fort was one of the few places along the entire Oregon Trail where travelers could restock their provisions, albeit at clip-joint prices.

Broken Treaties, Yet Again...

When Indian hostilities began to brew (very understandably, I might add) the federal government purchased the fort and staffed it with soldiers. Fort Laramie was now a safe haven for the emigrants, and also headquarters for various military campaigns. But perhaps the main reason we remember Fort Laramie today would be for the ill-fated attempts to negotiate treaties with the Indians. The well known Horse Creek Treaty of 1851 was initiated here. But when over 10,000 Indians, from a variety of tribes, arrived (with who knows how many horses), the negotiations had to be moved to a pasture near Horse Creek in Nebraska; the accommodations were just too cramped at Fort Laramie. This treaty was supposed to establish tribal grounds once and for all, along with the right for emigrants to travel unimpeded. Later, the Fort Laramie Treaty of 1868 led to yet another disgrace, as our government once more selfishly disregarded agreements it had made when gold was found in the Black Hills.

Maps and Guidebooks

The National Park Service, in conjunction with the U.S. Government Printing Office, has put out an excellent guide to Fort Laramie. This is #118 in a series of Official National Park Handbooks. You can purchase it right at the Site, or mail order it directly from the U.S. Government Online Bookstore. As is usual for publications put out by the feds, the photography, artwork and printing are outstanding; all this and terrific historical essays at a bargain price! You might also want to check out the offerings of the Fort Laramie Historical Association. And the Official Map and Guide, available free of charge at Fort Laramie, contains a wealth of information, too. The picture to the left shows the Handbook and Map, two of my favorite mementos of a wonderful trip here in 1999. As usual, you can click the footnote to find out the full publishing details. Remember, I'm not promoting or selling anything myself, but simply get a kick out of letting you see some of the souvenirs I've picked up on road trips through the Great Plains. I hope you enjoy looking at them.

Fort Laramie Today

Fort Laramie today looks much like it would have back when it was a military operation. Careful reconstruction and historical preservation gives it an authentic feel. The more than one dozen buildings sprinkled about the spacious grounds provide an excellent afternoon's outing, and of course there is the usual visitor center (housed in the old Commissary Storehouse). By the way, the photo at the start of this section is of the Captain's Quarters built in 1870. You can walk through it and see how it's been furnished with period decorations.

In James Michener's classic, Centennial, rancher Paul Garrett used to come to Fort Laramie when he needed to get away from the rat race, reflect on the past and collect his wits. One visit here, and you'll see why; it's a very contemplative place in a beautiful part of Wyoming.

• Federal
  • National Park Service
  • U.S. Government Online Bookstore
    
  • U.S. Government Printing Office
  
  
• State
  • State of Wyoming Travel and Tourism
  • The Wyoming Companion
  
  
• Municipal
  • City of Cheyenne
  
  
• Other Interesting Sites
  • AreaParks.com info on Fort Laramie
  • Fort Laramie Historical Association
  • Fort Laramie Treaty of 1868
  • Horse Creek in Nebraska
  • Mountain Men and the Fur Trade