Historic trails, dinosaur tracks, Indian rock art — the Comanche National Grassland has it, and more. This 435,000 acre treasure in southeastern Colorado will appeal to anyone interested in history, botany, zoology, ornithology and just about any other "ology" you can think of. Or if you simply prefer to look at beautiful sights, this is the place to come.

About the Comanche

A sister of the Cimarron National Grassland (which is just across the border in Kansas), the Comanche is split into two parts. The Timpas Unit starts just south of La Junta, while the Carrizo Unit is south of Springfield. We visited the latter in early June of 2000 and just scratched the surface of what's there; a return camping trip is on the agenda for the next year or so.

As I've mentioned elsewhere in these pages, each of our National Grasslands is very different in character from the others. The Comanche is primarily a shortgrass prairie (my favorite), with some mixed grass and canyonlands thrown in here and there. It's quite sandy in places, and from time to time almost looks like a desert. The ruins of homesteaders' cabins built of rock, mingled among the scrubby grasses, sandstone cliffs and occasional junipers, paint this grassland like the set of a cowboy movie. You can really tell you're pretty far west in the Great Plains now.

Speaking of parched lands, be sure to load up on water before coming here. Potable water is not available anywhere in the Comanche. Springfield is probably your last chance, and don't forget to fill up your gas tank as well.

Hobbled in the Grassland

A couple days earlier, I blew out my left knee big time, while merely erecting our tent. When we arrived at Comanche I could barely walk. Nonetheless, I was determined to see as much as I could after putting up with such a long haul here. Actually, we made it pretty far into the hinterlands of the Picture Canyon Trail, all things considered. The going was definitely one step at a time and my poor old knee felt like it would slip out completely at any minute.

But such is the magic of this place that for that day's hike I was so enthralled with the weird, Southwestern scenery I hardly even noticed my wobbly pins. Camping was out of the question for a couple days, though, since I basically had no bending mobility. We did spot the campground that we missed out on, at the head of the Picture Canyon Trail, and I can report that it's a honey. With a mere three sites and seemingly accessible only to tents, I have never seen a more remote and beautiful spot. The sites were shaded by a huge sheer rock cliff which spilled forth cool air, and like most National Grassland campgrounds, the sites were well separated. Finally, each had a substantial, covered picnic table for protection from the sun, and a set of very tidy kybos was nearby. Once again, if you've never experienced a National Grassland campground, you're in for a real treat; the USDA Forest Service certainly knows how to roll out the red carpet.

Whatever...

Since my knee gave out, we had to unexpectedly spend the night at a motel in Springfield some thirty miles away. With no reservations, we rolled in and rang the front bell, hoping for the best. A very strange acting, pallid and almost somnambulistic woman incapable of eye contact booked us in. Later, I had to rouse her and ask why there was no water in the toilet tank. She responded in a very thick Eastern European accent that the stop cock had been turned off and that we should open it. I asked her if that was standard operating procedure and if I should turn it off again when we were done. She muttered while gazing into space, "whatever." We piled all our luggage against the door that night...

Hiking the Picture Canyon Trail

The hike out along the Picture Canyon Trail was fabulous, and very remote. In fact, it's so detached that there's a weather-protected sign-in book at the trail head. You enter your name, what day and time you left and when (or if) you returned. Actually, we did see several people along the trail. A single guy on horseback (looking for all the world like the Marlboro Man) came through at one point, and I've never been so envious in my life. What a way to explore the Comanche! A little later on we encountered a pair of USDA botanists taking specimens and checking things off on a list. We had a chance to chat briefly, and they helped us identify which blanket-flower we had been seeing in bloom all over the place. Again, I was envious; the senior member appeared to know just about everything there was to know about plant taxonomy. And besides, can you think of a better way to make a living than by investigating plants in the Comanche National Grassland?

Once on the trail we quickly discovered that the birding was going to be spectacular. Early on we encountered the Say's phoebe, which is unknown in our home turf and so a real treat to our eyes. And then we saw (and heard, needless to say) a number of ravens, a very garrulous bird indeed. About a mile in, we came across an unexpected pothole of water (fed by a spring, I suppose) which supported several cottonwoods in which we saw Bullock's orioles. Along the cliffs we met an autistic rock wren flitting about. And then there were the usual shortgrass birds like western meadowlarks, lark sparrows and mourning doves. Rather surprisingly, we also spied a red headed woodpecker. That's just the start; my bird checklist was pretty impressive by the time we were done hiking.

Then it was time to rest the old knee and have a snack. The picture above shows me luxuriating in the shade of a rock cliff, one of many along this route. Somehow sitting there isolated, but for the company of birds and a nearby herd of grazing cows, made the previous school year all worth it. Teachers don't make much moolah, and we work double the usual hours during the school year, but at least in the summer we get to suck in the atmosphere of places like the Comanche and ponder things that really matter. Screw the money; I wouldn't have it any other way.

The Historical Side of the Comanche

The flora and fauna of the Comanche National Grassland are truly impressive. And then there's the historical side of things. The Santa Fe Trail passed by here, and limestone markers indicate its path. In a number of places, the ruts of this ancient trade route are still visible, even these 150 years later. But perhaps the most impressive remnant left by humans would be the prehistoric rock art. This was etched into the cliff walls some one thousand years ago, and is still very clearly visible. There are images of men, horses, animals, hand prints and so on. My partner and I have seen petroglyphs in a couple different states, but these were definitely among the best, and the best preserved. It really gives you the willies to just sit and stare at them.

Further out into the prairie we came across the remains of early homesteaders' rock huts. I presume these were built of sandstone blocks, cut from the nearby cliffs. Man, it would have taken a strong soul to survive out here, with water (among other things) being such a rare commodity.

Planning a Trip to the Grassland

Our time in the Comanche was somewhat limited, and of course my hobbled knees slowed us down even more so. But, we expect to return for a more detailed inspection soon. Among the attractions that have really galvanized my interest are the world class dinosaur tracks up in the Timpas Unit. I've read about these often and won't feel my life is complete until I hike out and see them with my own eyes. (These are in a very remote part of the Grassland and travel by foot is the only way to get to them).

If you'd like to learn more about the dinosaur tracks (among the largest in the world, consisting of allosaurus and apatasaurus footprints), be sure to lay your hands on some of the excellent brochures available, and the Comanche National Grassland Map. This latter item, besides being a splendid mile-square representation of the entire Grassland, is filled with pictures, descriptions and local history. There's a link to a federal map ordering service below.

Vacations are the most precious necessity in the world, and one should always make the most of them. One way to do so is by thinking ahead a little. I have certain acquaintances who would never dream of planning a venture, making a reservation ahead of time or stopping along the way to enjoy a side trip. Their idea of a holiday seems to consist of nothing more than driving interminable distances nonstop and futilely searching for a campsite or a cheesy motel room in the wee hours of the night.

Sorry — that's not my idea of fun. I like to uncover the well kept secrets of a locale ahead of time and know what jewels to look for...treasures most visitors miss entirely. And on the trip I enjoy pulling in, unhurried, for a well deserved sit-down and cocktail before leisurely preparing supper around the campfire.

One way to create relaxing and edifying vacations like this is by planning ahead of time with the wonderful materials available inexpensively (and often free of charge) from our government. As a plus, poring over these materials before you hit the road in effect extends your trip; the anticipation adds months onto a measly two week vacation. And afterwards they make great mementos for your scrapbook, multiplying the pleasure yet again. The picture above shows some of the items I used when planning our trek to the Comanche National Grassland in the year 2000. I got them directly from the Grassland headquarters in February of that year. A courteous letter was all it took.

Those Wonderful Rangers

It's been my experience that the foresters and rangers of the U.S. Forest Service are always delighted when someone takes an active interest in their dominion. The rangers at the Carrizo Unit headquarters in Springfield, Colorado were no exception. These friendly folks took the time to discuss local lore with us, gave us animal and birdwatching tips and made sure we knew how to get where we were heading in this rather rustic outback.

Well, writing this up has really pumped me; I think this might be the year we return...

• Federal
  • Forest Service Map Orders
  
  
• Municipal
  • City of La Junta
  • Town of Springfield
  
  
• Other Interesting Sites
  • Picket Wire Canyonlands
  • Vogel Canyon Picnic Area
  • Santa Fe Trail in the Comanche
  • Dinosaur Tracks in the Comanche
  • Rare Plants of the Comanche National Grassland