An important part of the Great Plains experience is learning something about the people who lived and live here. Sure, I love spending time studying the grasses of Rock Creek Pony Express Station, or hiking among the horned toads of Pawnee National Grassland or surveying the Yellowstone River from atop Pompeys Pillar. But I've also developed an insatiable curiosity about the Plains Indians: the way they lived before Philip Sheridan or the U.S. Army or the FBI, and the way they live today. So, here's a description of a place we found that has given my companion and me just a bit more insight.

As you drive along Interstate 90, you'll notice large and beautifully done billboards from time to time touting the Atka Lakota Museum. (This is assuming you haven't been lulled to sleep by the endless "free glass of ice water" ones!) I'm ashamed to state that my girlfriend and I had seen these many times before we finally got up the wherewith all to pull over and visit. This was on our fabulous winter vacation in the Badlands and Buffalo Gap National Grassland, at the so-called turn of the millennium. Stepping in the door, we immediately realized we had been missing something great. But first...

On the Campus of St. Joseph's Indian School

The Atka Lakota Museum is located in Chamberlain, right on the banks of the Missouri River. Nearby is the Lewis & Clark Information Center I've written about elsewhere. By taking Exit 263 from the Interstate, we were ushered to the newish Museum on the grounds of St. Joseph's Indian School.

This affiliation is probably one reason why I had never looked into the Museum before: mission schools give me the willies. I have always resented one group trying to impose a religion or way of life on another. It's not only immoral, it's downright unfair (and certainly unAmerican). A quick reading of Mary Crow Dog's insightful book, Lakota Woman will give you a feel for just what misery various religious schools have unleashed on earlier Western inhabitants.

Now to be fair, let me state right away that my comments are meant to be taken in a general way and don't necessarily apply to the St. Joseph's Indian School — I really have very little idea how it conducts itself. I would like to think that mission schools for the Indians are more tolerant nowadays. And I truly respect the work of volunteers who see to it that needy children are provided with food, clothing and a safe place to grow up. It's when the proselytizing begins that I become angry. I've never had a Lakota try to beat his religion into me, and as a token of mutual respect, I won't do the same to him. It's as simple as that. I'll step down off the soap box now.

Anyway, we put our dislike of preaching in temporary abeyance, and found our way to the campus. We checked in at an administration building, just to get directions to the museum itself. While there, though, we did sit and watch a quick video on the purpose and history of the school. After that, we worked our way down to the museum, several blocks away.

The picture to the right shows Marie standing in front of the Atka Lakota Museum. As you can tell, this is a beautiful piece of architecture in its own right, landscaped in a splendid natural setting. If you look carefully, you'll notice the Missouri River in the background. By the way, it was the dead of winter, but on this trip we had nothing but autumn temperatures.

Inside, the ambiance was dark and mystical. All around were the bold colors and geometrical patterns of a style unfamiliar to us. The exhibits here run the gamut, from early artifacts and works of the Plains Indians (back when they were free of eastern interference), on up to fine art by present day Lakota tribe members. Both painting and sculpture are represented here, I should add. All in all, this is an exquisite museum and I really urge you to make a trip to it.

Visiting the Museum

The Atka Lakota Museum is open year round. During vacation season (Memorial Day to Labor Day), its hours are 8am to 6pm, Monday through Saturday, and 9am to 5pm on Sunday. The rest of the year the hours are 8am to 5pm Monday through Friday. Rather unbelievably, given the wealth of items on display, admission is free of charge! Be sure to take a look at the Museum's Web site should you need any other information; there's an external link to it below.

• Federal
  • Missouri National Recreational River
  
  
• Municipal
  • City of Chamberlain
  
  
• Other Interesting Sites
  • The FBI: At the Pine Ridge Reservation
  • Philip Sheridan
  • St. Joseph's Indian School